When I arrived in Amsterdam, I went to live in the Indische Buurt. Molukkenstraat, to be more precise. First day upon my arrival I found it an ugly street. There were no hipster cafes at the Molukkenstraat at the time, just very shady coffee shops, equally shady dry-cleaning businesses, and Turkish man-only hairdressers. There was also the occasional male who would harass you on the street, which was something quite peculiar having into account that that phenomenon simply DOESN’T happen in Amsterdam. But it did at the Molukkenstraat.
‘Indische Buurt’ sounded like something India-related to me, wich I figured out should have something to do with immigrant populations. I googled it. A very interesting piece of history unfolded upon me. ‘Indische’ was related to the former Dutch colony of the Dutch East Indies or now known as Indonesia. It was indeed a borough ( ‘buurt’) built for immigrants, in the early 2oth century. There are still an estimated 100 languages spoken there (!). The Wikipedia-knowledge I gathered in those 5 minutes were enough to impress one of my first Dutch friends, whose family roots were, coincidentally, at the Molukken Islands, which gave the name to my street!
I remember feeling very happy the first day I walked the entire street alone to Albert Hein, the supermarket, and got my groceries. It was my second day in Amsterdam, and I had managed to walk a few hundred meters along my new street, buy shampoo, yoghurt and cereal without speaking the local language, and at cheaper prices than in Portugal. I felt victorious.
This was the view from my living-room. One week after my arrival, it started snowing gloriously, and that was the last winter the canals froze in The Netherlands.
I recall looking at the old Badhuis, at the Javaplein, and feeling slightly puzzled. The place looked creative and wonderful – a little bit exotic even, but in a modern way – and it was quite a contrast to the rest of the Molukkenstraat. It resembled a bar, or cafe, or restaurant. I learned soon afterwards that in Amsterdam, most of the times, the three coexist perfectly in one same place. People sitting at their large terrace seemed relaxed and satisfied while wrapped up in their super winter scarves, holding their glasses of wine stylishly. I wondered how they wouldn’t freeze outside. And I secretly desired to be at that same place, in that same fashion, transpiring that bourgeois tranquility just as they did. But for now, I just had to find my way around. And a job, for that matter.
I absolutely LOVED my room at the Molukkenstraat. And the house, for that matter. This was the mattress you might have read about on this post.
Jan
I WANT MORE!
Seriously.
And we never talked about your first experience of Amsterdam.
The current state of Indische buurt is, I’d say, quite different. However, I wouldn’t like it more gentrified than it is today — too gentrified is generic, and the current mix of hipster and ethnic is just the right one.
Amsterdive
Yes, there are a number of dark obscure secrets about my life which you don’t know about Jan 😉
And yes, I hope they don’t manage to kick out the immigrant populations who have been living in the Indische Buurt for ages. The problem is, that area is now worth too much money for this not to happen. It is just too attractive for real estate and big businesses so I’m afraid the landscape of the neighborhood will change pretty fast. Look at what happened in De Pijp.
Amsterdamming
That bus stop. 🙂 That’s where I was waiting for my bus to go to work, when I was staying over at my boyfriend’s house. He was living at that time on the Niasstraat, just behind your building. 😛
Amsterdive
It was SO HANDY. The bus was stopping in front of my door, and, as far as I can remember, it took 12 min to Centraal Station.
I was taking the bus whenever I was feeling sickish, or when I had guests staying over. It was also great to carry stuff instead of performing balancing acts on the bike 😉
Maeve
Hi Ana,
I read this page in a search of information about Indische Buurt and visited Studio K yesterday, thanks to your recommendation. I had one of the best extra sterk lattes since moving here, and I fell in love with the space.Then i took a deep dive into your blog today and have made many discoveries that I’m excited to explore. I am curious if you are going to have another Hear Here, I would love to join.
Best,
Maeve
Ana Seas
Dear Maeve,
Your comment made my day! I’m so happy that my suggestions are useful to your explorations of Amsterdam. Oh, you made me feel nostalgic about my East-Amsterdam times now 🧡 I’d love to organize another Hear Here. Thanks for asking! This might be just the incentive I was in need of to start planning 😉
Maeve
That would be fun!
I love exploring neighborhoods, and a good cafe means everything to me.